maydang.blogspot.com - So I’ve arrived in Germany at the height of Spring. My hosts, in typical European fashion, took me to a Heckenwirtschaft, which has become one of our regular experiences when I visit.
The Heckenwirtschaft, pronounced “Hecken - veert - shahft” is a Franconian tradition. Franconia is a region in northern Bavaria and the adjacent state of Baden-Wuerrtemberg. It’s named after the Germanic tribe of the Franks who played a major role in colonizing Europe after the Roman Empire. If you’re the history type, check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franconia.
For a few weeks each Spring and Fall, wine growers open a small restaurant-like area of their houses - it could even be their own dining rooms - and offer their own wines and homemade food. It’s not a real restaurant open year-round.
I somehow manage, not on purpose, to be in Germany during these times. The Heckenwirtschaften, incidentally, coincide with “shoulder season” for travel, just before or after the high season when prices are lower and most of the huge summer crowds aren’t present.
My German friends have taken me to several different Heckenwirtschaften and they range in décor and ambience from very plain to Sonoma-like. I have a few favorites but this time they took me to a new one: Rippstein - Mojzis in Zell am Ebersberg (not to be confused with Zell am Rhein where the Black Cat wines are made). Of course Hilde, who I’ve nicknamed “Mafia Mami” because she knows everyone and everywhere to get the best for the least, knew Christine Rippstein, the owner of the place.
Because the Heckenwirtschaft is only open a few weeks a year, the owners generally have a day job. Christine’s is a certified auto mechanic. She has a job working on buses. She is a tall woman of ample proportions with an extremely short haircut. She is also the friendliest person I’ve met in a long time.
We arrived at her house where the only sign that anything was going on was a freestanding chalkboard with the name and hours written on it. In the old days they put up evergreen branches or brooms over the doorway to signal it was open. There were similar decorations here, but there is always something like that on a German house, though, so I don’t know if it was specifically for the Heckenwirschaft or not.
Our group, Hilde, Adi, Hilde’s brother Armin, and me, filed through the door into a small room crowded with tables. Christine greeted us and I was introduced. Even though I can’t always understand what is being said, I can always pick out the words, “Karren”, “American,” and “Florida,” and sometimes “photographer.” Christine smiled a dimpled smile and welcomed us to a table then rushed off into the tiny kitchen I could see adjoining the dining area.
The place was rather plain but made cheerful by Easter decorations, flowers and candles on each table. The little menus were obviously printed on the computer and a couple of mistakes were hand-corrected. But they were laminated.
The fare consisted of three wines: Riesling, Bacchus and Schwarzriesling. Many of you know that Germany is famous for producing the white Riesling wine. Bacchus is also a sweeter white, while Schwarziesling (meaning “black Riesling”) is a semi-sweet red. I generally prefer red wines so I ordered the Schwarzriesling. It was delicious.
As we waited for our wine, Hilde pointed out that we could see the vineyard on the hill just outside the window. The grapes for the wine that soon arrived at our table were grown just outside!
The food on the menu consisted of various cheeses and wurst. Hilde and I split a cheese platter, which had my favorite Gerupftekaese and other selections. Gerupfter, as it’s called, is a mixture of Camembert, Limburger, onions and salt and pepper. It’s WAY yummier than it sounds! I was so surprised to find it had Limburger in it when I first tasted it.
There was also a Frischkaese mixture (“fresh cheese” - texture equivalent to whipped cream cheese) with tri-colored pepper, paprika and salt that was very tasty. I also tried a delicious soft cheese called Romadur. Romadur is Limburger’s kinder, gentler cousin with a mild flavor and aroma. In researching these cheeses, I discovered that Germany produces over 600 kinds of cheese, most of them in Bavaria! Check out www.germanfoods.org/consumer/facts/guidetocheese.cfm.
The wine was delicious and was a perfect match to the cheeses. If you keep in mind that wines produced in the same area as the food usually pairs well with it, you’ll understand what a treat this experience was. Couple the fare with the Gemuetlichkeit (friendly atmosphere and camaraderie of the place - Germans even have songs about it) and you’ve got a winning combination.
Although you can usually procure the same products anywhere in the world, there is something magical about being in the place they are made while experiencing them. It’s an intangible quality that I find hard to describe. But I’m very glad to know that place DOES matter for things.
Another thing on the menu was Geschnittene Hase. The name translates as “cut-up rabbit” but it’s actually a fried pastry. The dough is rolled out into flat squares about the size of your palm then serrated slices are made in it. One edge is woven through the other strips and the whole thing is dropped into hot oil to fry. Sprinkled with powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar, they can be quite mouth-watering. They are a holiday treat and you will see them at Easter, Christmas, and such.
A woman at the next table overheard me talking about the Czech Republic and exclaimed that she was Czech, though she’d lived in Germany most of her life. She was so happy that I was going there. Considering the attitude most Germans have about Czechs, I’m sure it was a welcome change. We spoke frequently throughout the evening and when we left she said goodbye in Czech. I’m glad she was so happy with my being there!
Christine was very busy, but she took the time to sit with us for a few minutes during the evening and welcome me and ask about Florida and such. She stopped by the table as we were leaving and asked if I would like a bottle of wine to take home in my luggage. I said, “No, we will drink it here!” She loved that and gave me a liter of Schwarzriesling and a foil-wrapped Geschnittene Hase to take with me.
My friend Kurt Lee's moral for this story: “Recipe for a good time: A little food, a few friends, some fellowship. Add a large helping of wine and cheese for extra flavor.”
I hope all of you are well and happy. Drop me a line if you get a chance.
Next time: Osterbrunnen. BTW, don’t look for that wine when I get back to Florida; it’s long gone!
Karren
Photography web site:
www.komnatachista.com
Online shop:
www.komnatachista.etsy.com
Facebook ID: Karren D. Tolliver
Twitter ID: KomnataChista
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